Surfing is dangerous. The ocean is a dynamic and powerful environment that is out of human control. As a result, surfing is inherently risky. From beginners to professionals, all surfers assume some risk.
The key is managing this risk to an appropriate level for your personal abilities and goals. Every surfer has a different skill level and risk tolerance.
The bottom line is, even though surfing can be dangerous, it is usually pretty safe for the casual surfer. Also, it is precisely this risk that makes surfing exciting!
Knowledge and experience will help you stay safe in the water and keep having fun. In this article, I share the most significant dangers of surfing and how to avoid them.
Disclaimer: I am not a professional surfer and do not have professional water safety or surfing training. I have been surfing casually for 8 years and would like to help others learn about surfing. The material in this article reflects my personal experiences and is most applicable to beginner and intermediate surfers.
Strong Ocean Currents / Rip Currents
The ocean is dynamic and always moving. Ocean currents are horizontal flows of water from one location to another. Think of a current as a river flowing through a specific part or “route” within the ocean.
Tides, wind, water temperature, river outlets and other factors influence currents. Due to the dynamic nature of these factors, ocean currents can change quickly and without warning.
As a result, ocean currents are often one of the most significant dangers that surfers face out in the water.
Ocean currents can be strong or weak, steady or unpredictable, obvious or difficult to see. Currents can pull surfers away from the beach (referred to as a rip current), parallel to the beach, or something in between.
Currents often appear along rock outcroppings, sea walls, sand bars, or other obstructions in the water, but they can happen anywhere, even without one of these features. Each surf spot has a different potential for currents.
Some currents occur periodically and are driven by the tide. Others pop up out of the blue and are not based on any pattern.
Although currents can be dangerous, there are ways surfers can identify currents, avoid them, and even utilize currents to their advantage.
- Watch from the beach
Before you go in the water, always watch for a few minutes to get a sense for the conditions. Try to spot any currents in the water.
Watch for places where the water seems to be moving sideways or away from the beach. Keep an eye out for other surfers or debris floating in the water that might indicate the direction of a current.
For rip currents specifically, watch for these characteristics:
- A channel of water with fewer breaking waves surrounded by more breaking waves
- Deeper or darker strip of water
- Foamy, cloudy, or sandy water flowing away from the beach
- Water from already broken waves funneling to a center point
If you find yourself caught in a rip current. Swim or paddle to the side, parallel from the beach, towards areas where waves are breaking heavier.
- Awareness in the water
Once you’re in the water, always be aware of what is going on around you, and your location relative to the beach. As soon as you paddle out beyond the break, or even while you’re inside the break, find one or more spots on shore and make a mental note of your location relative to that point. This way, you have a fixed reference point that you can use to see if you are drifting in a current.
Pay attention to what other surfers are doing. Surfers will often paddle against a current to maintain a constant location, although this is not ideal. If everyone on the water is paddling in the same direction, they may be battling a current.
Currents can be dangerous, but staying aware and knowing what to look for will help you mitigate these dangers. If you have any question about the safety of a spot, it’s probably best to pass for the day, or at least wait until conditions improve.
This is especially true if there aren’t many other people out there or you’re not very confident in your ability to spot currents. If there are other surfers around, you can ask them if they see any currents.
In general, a popular surf spot is usually pretty safe with regards to currents. There is a reason it is a good place to surf. However, even on a calm day, popular surf spots can have dangerous currents. Stay aware and keep within your skill level!
Large Waves
For many surfers, large waves are one of the scariest parts of surfing and for good reason! Being slammed and held under the surface by a big wave is terrifying.
When you finally get let back up and catch a breath, there might be another wave about to hit. It is no secret that large waves are dangerous to surfers, but there are ways to be safer when surfing in big waves.
- Start small and within your limits
Beginner and intermediate surfers often get in over their heads. It has definitely happened to me. Ego often fuels confidence, waves look smaller from the beach, and the stoke runs high.
Fortunately, the ocean has a wonderful ability to humble one’s ego and bring us back to baseline. It is best however, to be proactive and stay within your limits from the start.
- Stay calm and avoid panic
Panic or terror is not your friend in the water. Being held under by a big wave is scary, but panic only makes things worse. Thrashing around and trying to swim to the surface uses more oxygen and increases your heart rate.
When being held down by a big wave, it is best to stay calm and let yourself float to the surface. You might need that oxygen for the next wave.
- Prepare for inconsistent waves
A lot of the time, the waves on a particular day surfing are usually around the same size. However, there is sometimes the occasional “big set” that rolls through that is larger than the normal waves.
These are sometimes referred to as “clean up” sets because they catch everyone in the lineup inside. Even on a small day, these big sets can be powerful. Keep your eye on the horizon when you’re waiting for a wave.
- Learn how to duck dive or turtle roll
Research and practice how to duck dive (short board) or turtle roll (longboard) to save energy when paddling out to the break. These actions are valuable tools in a surfers tool box and are important for beginners to learn and employ.
Other Surfers
Sometimes, other surfers are the biggest danger out on the water. Not because they want to hurt you, but rather because accidental collisions are a real possibility.
Collisions with other surfers can happen during a number of different situations. For example, when multiple surfers go for the same wave, when one surfer is riding the wave and one is paddling out, or when both surfers are paddling out.
Anytime you are in the water, be aware of where other surfers are and where they are likely to be in the near future.
Always adhere to surfing etiquette. Surfing etiquette exists to keep you and other surfers safe. Specifically, to help surfers avoid collisions in the water. Think of surfing etiquette as rules, just like there are rules for driving a car.
These are rules everyone knows and follows (at least ideally) so that no one runs into each other. I won’t go into detail on surfing etiquette in this article, but there are plenty of resources out there that you can learn from.
Your Own Gear
It may be surprising, but your own surfboard and leash can be a danger. This is especially true to beginners who are not as accustomed to handling a board in the water.
Common mishaps include falling on your board, getting tangled in your leash, cutting yourself on your fins, and hitting your face on the surfboard. I have bonked my board lots of times and seen a friend cut their lip open and needed stitches.
Managing your gear in the water is a skill that you develop as you gain more experience. Over time, you will learn how a board reacts in the water and how to handle your leash so it doesn’t tangle your feet.
Having enough wax on your board and using a long enough leash will make it easier to handle your gear in the water. Your surfboard leash should be about the length of your board or slightly longer.
If you are a beginner, I recommend starting with a soft-top board if you have one. They don’t hurt quite as bad if you accidentally knock into them.
With a soft-top, you are also less of a risk to other surfers if you lose control of your board. Also, keep an eye on your board in the white water. A wave can kick your board up into you if you are in the wrong place.
Rocks and the Ocean Floor
The ocean bottom can pose a risk to surfers. The surface under the water you are surfing can be a reef, rocks, sand, or a combination of these. The danger is wiping out and colliding with the ocean bottom.
Each surf spot is different and it is important to know what the ocean bottom media is before you go. It might affect where or how you surf. If it’s just sand, there is less risk. If the bottom is reef or rocks it is a different story.
Regardless of the type of bottom, being pushed to the floor during a wipeout can hurt you. Try to protect your head with your arms. If the water is shallow, try to wipe out feet first and bend your legs if you impact the ocean floor.
This will soften the impact. You can also try to spread your limbs before you hit the water, like you’re trying to stay near the surface.
If you’re a beginner, I recommend starting at a surf spot that has a sandy bottom. Depending on your location, this may or may not be realistic.
Where I live in Oregon, most of the spots have sandy bottoms, so I don’t really worry about rocks or reefs, which I really like! Ask other surfers what the ocean floor is like when you go to a new surf spot.
Fatigue
Fatigue and weariness is a real danger that might be overlooked. Surfing is exhausting and can burn you out quicker than you think.
Being tired in the wrong place at the wrong time can have consequences. It’s important to keep track of your fatigue level and be realistic about your ability to handle unforeseen situations.
Take the following case for example. You have been surfing for an hour or two and your shoulders are starting to burn. You tell yourself “okay just one more wave”.
It can be hard to go in when you’re having so much fun! So you start to paddle out right when a big set comes in. You have to paddle really hard and duck dive to go against the waves.
Sometimes it works out okay, but other times you get exhausted and it can be scary and very dangerous. I have been in some bad situations myself that, looking back on now, could have been avoided if I went in when I was tired. When you feel tired, it’s best to play it safe and go in for a break.
Know when you should take a break before you get in a bad situation. When you’re outside of the break sitting on your board, take your time to rest.
Don’t feel like you have to catch every wave. Take breaks often. Go in to the beach, eat some food, and hydrate. Take lots of time to recover. It’s better to surf more, shorter sessions that fewer, longer ones.
Also, stretch and warm up each time before you go out. A quick yoga flow or similar exercise helps to avoid cramps and tight muscles in the water.
Bottom line: stay within your limits and be cautious.
Heads up! Surfing is awesome but it can be dangerous! Learn more about how to stay safe and avoid dangers while surfing. If you are a beginner surfer, check out my other articles about surfing and my ultimate guide to learning how to surf.
